From Springer Mountain Georgia to Mt. Katahdin Maine

Saturday, May 12, 2012

Woods Hole Hostel

Hey y'all! Ha I just read Dad's post and I think my mom got a little mixed up. I'm right now at Woods Hole Hostel which has been my favorite spot on the whole trail so far. Gribley and I hiked about 19 miles to Trent's Grocery (a random gas station that served burgers & eggs on the side of the road - a hiker delight!) on Wednesday night. We were pretty exhausted and opted to camp out back with some other hikers. I called mom in the morning to start figuring out plans for Cole's arrival (which I can't wait for!) and gave her some random names of places which I think got confused.

Woods Hole Hostel

Thursday, we hiked about 16 over to Wood's Hole Hostel. We originally planned to just spend a night and leave in the morning, but this has been the most amazing experience ever and we decided to spend the day yesterday relaxing. We handwashed our laundry old-school style - using dr. bronners, a bucket, plungers, and a washboard. We wrung out the clothes on this old machine, I'm not sure what it's called, but it's two rolling cylinders and you roll the clothes through them to wring them out. I really think that we actually got everything cleaner than they have ever been, and then hung them up on the clothes line to dry in the sun. I ate the most amazing meals - everything locally grown and made from scratch. Most of my day yesterday was spent in the colorful woven hammock on the porch, and when I wasn't doing that I was laying in the sun reading & writing & sharing stories with other hikers. It truly was the best "zero" I've taken, the most relaxed I've been in this 7+ week journey.

Gribley and I are heading out this morning to Pearisburg, to hopefully meet back up with Tatertot & Pants on Fire. We'd planned to all meet here, but heard through the grapevine that they went straight into town. I love the simple communication out here. Even here right now, all the hikers here are people I've met along the way - some were ahead and some were behind, but for whatever reason we are all here together right now. No texting or tweeting - just word of mouth.

Anyway, our goal is to hitch into Pearisburg and get in & out of the Food Lion as quickly as possible, and then put in another 5-10 miles to a campsite. We are shooting to get to Catawba sometime this week. We've heard of an amazing restaurant there that some friends said we absolutely MUST visit. The goal is to get to Daleville by Thursday (100 miles away) to somehow get a ride down to Damascus for Trail Days. Still not sure how we are getting there.. we shall see!!

Still loving this great adventure. There perhaps is nothing more liberating than carrying everything I need on my back, walking into the mountains not knowing where I will sleep every night. I'm happier & in such a peaceful state out here -  more than I could have ever anticipated.

xo Daystar

Friday, May 11, 2012

The Magnificent Seven down to the Fanatastic Four



Catawba, VA terrain
The Colonnade at W&L Lexington, VA
Macon called yesterday morning from Catawba, mile 704 a town just west of Roanoke Virginia where the trail leaves the Jefferson National Forest and rolls through fields crossing Interstate Highway 81 north of Roanoke and goes east of the interstate past Lexington and Staunton, Virginia.  I happen to be a bit partial having graduated from Washington & Lee University that she is hiking through some of the prettiest terrain in all of these United States.  Too bad she can’t stop at the East Lexington grocery for a six pack of Strohs and an inner tube.   She hopes to be in Daleville today, and a week from today Harrisonburg, when she takes the shuttle south to Damascus for Trail Days.  As usual, she was in great spirits, averaging 17 miles a day. 
Dragon's Tooth, Catawba, VA


I think she, Gribley, Pants, and TaterTot camped behind the Catawba Quick Stop.  She also mentioned a restaurant, maybe the Homeplace Restaurant nearby, and a hiker hostel run by a third generation grandchild.  Her descriptions were something akin to a travel writer describing a new Hilton, only approximated by AT accomodations.  The three guys who had been hiking with Tatertot have left the trail for full time jobs so now there are four in Macon’s group.   Missy and Cole will meet them a week from Sunday in Damascus and take them back to Harrisonburg to resume the hike after “Trail Days.”

Monday, May 7, 2012

Weekend Update

A week or so ago, Macon dropped her phone in a waterfall so news and pictures have been scarce.  She also lost her contact lenses but we were able to ship more to her, thanks to the fine folks at Mt. Rogers Outfitters in Damascus.  Yesterday she called on Tatertot's phone from Gullion (mile 547) near Atkins, Virginia.  She and her hiking buddies are in good spirits and so far no injuries.  Her group stayed at the Relax Inn.  The plan is to catch a shuttle back to Damascus for "Trail Days" (May 18-20) and then on Sunday, Missy will meet up with Macon and her trail friends.  Missy will take Macon a new iphone and her laptop so she can write a post and she'll deliver everyone to where they got off the trail before the Trail Days' weekend. 

Cole, Macon's younger sister, will join Macon on the trek north on Sunday, May 20th. Cole plans to hike until mid-June when she begins her summer job at a Fresh Air Fund camp an hour north of NYC.  When asked about her transportation to camp (i.e. air, train, bus, etc.), Cole said she would be hiking from Virginia.

Monday, April 30, 2012

Damascus, VA part 2

Good morning! Still in Damascus but heading out as soon as I post this. We were really wiped out after such a big week and stayed 2 nights but feel totally rested which is good. Also, this is the first time in town that I've felt really relaxed. Normally a town visit ends up being very busy with "town chores" - navigating your way around small towns (usually involved waiting for shuttle services), figuring out resupply needs, laundry, showers, phone calls.. usually doesn't leave too much time for good ole sitting around & resting. This time though, we got a lot done Saturday afternoon and had time yesterday to go swim in the river, lay in the grass, and drink some cold beers in the sun. We also did some ice baths for our feet last night and everyone is feeling great today. Since the library was closed yesterday, I started to write this post in my journal:

After 466.7 miles on the trail, the fatigue has really begun to set in. My feet ache almost every morning, especially by my arches, and usually look pretty swollen. I try to elevate them or invert (doing various upside down yoga poses) as much as possible, but sometimes it just doesn't happen. I think it was Wednesday morning, it started to really rain as we were packing up and my pack got soaked for the first time. I thought it was fine, until I realized in the afternoon that the back hip part of my pack was rubbing a bad rash on my back.. not pleasant. My knees are talking to me on an almost daily basis. I played soccer for 10 years and have generally been pretty active & athletic my whole life and never had any knee issues, but now I know what people talk about when they say their knees hurt. I'm really glad for my trekking poles and just try to be careful with them - especially going downhill.

Aside from the body aches & pains, there is a consistent general level of exhaustion and therefore an increased drive for efficiency. As we try to increase our mileage during the daylight hours, it's important to accomplish all our "camp chores" as quickly as possible to have time for as much sleep as possible. Its funny - walking 15+ miles every day with a heavy pack is the most physically demanding but also the simplest part of the day. When I get up in the morning, I try to do some quick yoga stretches in my tent - child's pose & cat/cow for my back. I squeeze a dollop of anti-bacterial gel on my hands and put in my contacts (no mirror!). Depending on how cold it is, I bundle up in my down jacket that doubles as a pillow while I sleep. I find my crocs & go use the bathroom and say hello to whoever is awake. Next usually is taking down the bear line - we all hang our food together. Bears aren't a huge threat in this area, but it's a good principle and also there are mice and other rodents that can get into it if we don't hang it. Depending on how much water I have, I usually go pump water in the mornings. I switched out my chemicals for a ceramic water filter. I feel much better about drinking clean, filtered, mountain water than pool tasting chlorine water, but it is a bit more annoying. Once I have my water & food bag, I light up my Jet boil and make some oatmeal & coffee. Yes that's right - haha after scoffing at all the New Yorker's that frighteningly asked "but what will you do about coffee?!" I am now an owner of the Jetboil French Press attachment & have some fancy Intelligencia coffee!  Ha it's a bit luxurious but one of my favorite parts of my morning at home is making coffee and I love that I can now make it out here. I got the press & coffee last weekend in Boone.  At about 400 miles, I was ready to make some slight changes to my gear. Most trail towns are small & rely on thru-hikers for their income. Boone is a good hour away from the trail, so when the staff found out I was thru-hiking, they got really excited. Everyone was super helpful and they gave me some great discounts - and also a free Nalgene!

Anyway, I'm really glad about having coffee in the mornings. The grounds aren't too bad to clean out and they make my food trash bag smell good (since usually the tuna packets get pretty stinky!) After having breakfast, which is always pretty social, I pack up my food bag and proceed to pack up my home. I love living like a vagabond - walking all day and then making a home in the woods, and then in the morning packing it all back up again. The last step is putting on my hiking shoes and hoisting up my pack. We usually all leave camp one at a time - I like to get going early and some of the guys like to have a more leisurely morning. We have a joke that when anyone heads on, everyone says bye by yelling out "See you in Maine!"

Once I get going hiking, I like to go a good 8 miles or so before stopping for a snack or lunch either at a pretty view or a shelter. The great thing about shelters is that aside from providing shelter to sleep under, they are great meeting spots during the day. There is almost always water at a shelter and sometimes a privy. The best thing though are the trail registers. In the world of instant communication, I love that out here the only way to communicate with hikers you aren't physically with is via word of mouth or in the trail registers. People sign in with the date, and will put a few lines about what they did that day, like "hiked 22 miles today, great view from that mountain" or "stopping in for lunch, headed on to this other shelter tonight." Sometimes its funny jokes or inspiring quotes. They are great though because you can see who of your friends is ahead and by how many days.

Anyway, I think that's as much as I'm going to write today - need to head on out of town! Should be in Atkins, VA in 4-5 days so I'll see if I can update then. This week we will hit our 500 mile mark (we've been singing the song "and I would walk 500 miles, and I would walk 500 more" pretty much everyday so we can't wait to get to that point!). Also we will pass the Grayson Highlands that have WILD PONIES!!!

xoxo Daystar


Saturday, April 28, 2012

Damascus, VA

Good morning! Daystar here in Damascus, VA. I had visions of being clean & rested & typing up this blog post after some thoughtful reflection time, but the public library closes at 1pm and doesn't open again until Monday morning. I'm in a bit of a zombie state right now so I'm going to go ahead and apologize for any ramblings or nonsensical thoughts.. ha.

This morning, Tatertot & I left Abingdon Shelter at 5:30am (after waking at 5) to hike the last 10 miles into Damascus. We crossed the TN/VA state line about 8am which was really exciting - 3 states done. Although they say, don't get too excited about checking states off your list, because Virgina will bum you out - it's about one fourth of the entire trail. We were racing in to be here before the P.O. closed at 11 but ended up arriving around 9, which was perfect because we'd only had 2 granola bars & a few sips of gatorade all day - we were thrilled to have time to eat some greasy, southern breakfast. Yesterday we did our biggest day yet of 22.7 miles. The boys went for the full marathon - 26.2, but both Tater & I hit a wall yesterday around mile 18 and decided 22.7 was plenty for the day. We also realized we'd be able to hike faster in the morning than trudging on last night. The timing worked out though - we caught up with the boys and all had breakfast together.

In general, this has been a good but tough week. I was off the trail for three nights in Boone/Banner Elk and you kind of lose your "trail legs" and it takes some adjusting getting back in the groove of walking every day. Everyone else was pretty exhausted from surviving the blizzard. Overall, I feel like the fatigue really set in this week. We're still laughing & smiling a lot, but a lot of the extra goofy energy is waning. Damascus, VA is the symbolic 1/4 done mark. I'm not sure why, the physical mark is more like 560 or so. But as Gribley put it, making it to Damascus is like finishing up freshman year. We've walked 467 miles at this point, up and over big mountains. We've survived rain, heat, cold, and humidity. I missed the big blizzard, but all my buddies made it out alive & that much stronger.

Ok I feel like I'm struggling to write complete thoughts.. I'm going to ahead and click "publish" and try to write more later. Off to shower!

In the meantime, check out Tatertot's photos here!

Love y'all!

PS - this is right after I dropped my phone in the waterfall: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lostandlovingit/7121540745/in/photostream



Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Laurel Fork Waterfall - 417 miles

Macon sent this text around 5:30 pm today:  "Hey mom it's Macon on Tater Tot's phone.  Dropped my phone in Laurel Fork Waterfall.... It turns on but isn't really working.  I'll sort it out in Damascus, planning to get in on Sat.  I'll call or email then, love y'all." 

Macon and Monica met up with the group as planned on Monday for the sandwich picnic.  They hadn't planned on SNOW !!  All the hostels were full so they booked a room in a Best Western in Banner Elk, NC.  Monica stayed the night with the hikers and all enjoyed pizza and beer.  Macon called her dad before heading back to the trail on Tuesday.  She's in great spirits -- rested, refreshed, and ready to get back on the trail and hike to Damascus.

Monday, April 23, 2012

Boone, NC

Hello hello! Daystar here in Boone, NC. Monica & her dad picked me up from US19 E yesterday, along with Roadside - he promised his mama that he wouldn't hitchhike and so Mr. Carroll kindly agreed to drop him at the nearby hostel. He then kindly agreed to drop me at the nearby Wendy's. I haven't had fast food in years but on the trail, I've developed a serious hankering for Frostys. Ha after all that, we headed over to their adorable Mountain House (named Appalachian Moonshine) in Boone, NC - where Monica went to college at Appalachian State University. Monica showed me to the shower, where I had my first encounter with girly smelling things in over a month. All my previous showers have been in hostels or cheap motels using whatever shampoo & soap that's around. Monica, bless her heart, took all my dirty, stinky clothes and washed everything while I showered. She let me borrow some COTTON clothes, quite a luxury for someone who's been wearing only quick-dry synthetic materials. She made a mean Mexican macaroni casserole and her dad grilled some turkey burgers and we had a really great dinner. After a long, amazing soak in the hot tub, we threw on some skirts & chacos and went down to the Boone Saloon where I had a Maker's on the rocks & some local IPAs. The Maker's was especially delicious - the past few trail towns have been in dry counties. When we realized Hot Springs had no liquor, we chanted "no bourbon til Erwin" only to arrive in Erwin and realize there was "no bourbon IN Erwin.."

Anyway, the trail is still going really, really well. I'm so fortunate to be hiking with such a great group of people. I hiked ahead of them this week to meet Monica and take a day off here and will catch back up with them on Monday with a big picnic "sandwich party." Hiking without them and being on my own felt good at first, but I've realized that a big part of this experience is sharing it with others. For those who've seen Into the Wild - that was a big part at the end, a quote from Tolstoy that life experiences are meant to be shared with others.

Now that I'm sitting on a computer, I uploaded lots of pictures & videos from my phone that I'm excited to share from a while back:

Easter Sunday we left Gatlinburg and re-entered the Smokeys. One of the first things we saw was Charlie's Bunion, this amazing view. I'm here with the Peace Corps boys - a group of 3 guys that spent the last two years in Peru teaching & setting up programs about Environmental Conservation. They are Wonder, Fresh, and Squiddy (Squiddy started out as School Words, which evolved to Squidward, and then to Squiddy for short).

Tuesday April 10 was our last morning in the Smokeys. We stayed in Davenport Shelter, the last shelter in the Smokeys and also the last to still have a bear cage. Until recently, all the shelters in the Smokeys had the bear cages to protect people & their food. Unfortunately, many really dumb people thought it would be a good idea to FEED the bears through the cage, which attracted even more bears, and teaches them to associate humans with free food - NOT a good idea! They decided to take down the cages and instead provide bear cables, which work great, and you don't feel like you are in a zoo.



There was no real sign indicating that we had left the Smokeys, but I did see a cool old state line carved into a rock. 

Once we were out of the Smokeys, we had to cross I-40, which felt pretty odd. 
Check out the White Blaze under the East 40 sign!
Gribley & Pants on Fire by I-40
Along the trail are lots of cool hostels. I'm starting to realize that beyond the actual TRAIL experience, there is so much beyond the trail. I love seeing small town America and all these cool hostels along the way. They are like little trail attractions that hikers talk about. One of those was Standing Bear Hostel. We didn't stay there, but it was cool to walk over for lunch. Pilgrim, one of the owners, offered me a spaghetti dinner which was awesome! They also provided a small resupply store, which was really adorable & helpful.

Standing Bear
Spaghetti dinner for lunch with a really cute puppy watching me. 
Resupply options
Another shot of the grounds
The guys hanging out 
I LOVED this really beautiful sink & tile
After we left the hostel, we had some big climbs ahead of us, including Snowbird Mountain - a pretty bald with a weird government building:

Loved the pretty yellow flowers
Shot of the building
Flugel Horn, Hollywood, Gribley, Davey Jones, Pac Man & Pants on Fire
The biggest climb of the day, and one of my favorite spots of the whole trail was climbing up Max Patch. We'd left the Smokey's that morning and it was a long day with lots of climbs, but totally worth it hiking up this beautiful bald at the end of the day. My camera on my phone has been fussy when it gets too cold, but luckily I was able to capture this video before the camera froze.


After summiting Max Patch, we hiked down a bit to find a campsite that was pretty but very windy. That night was one of the coldest on the trail - we heard the temperature had dropped down to the 20s. Thankfully, I was plenty warm in my tent & sleeping bag for bed, but in the morning, I stayed in all my warm gear to walk a mile north to a shelter where we warmed up over breakfast. From there, we pushed hard to get into Hot Springs. I have a ton of great pictures but will share those in a separate post.

I'm going to go ahead and sign off for tonight, and hope to write another post in the morning with more. I've had a really incredible day in Boone - Monica and I had a great lunch, I got some new gear at the outfitters (with a nice discount and free purple nalgene for being a thru-hiker!), we resupplied my food at Walmart and will pick up a few more things in the morning. We soaked in the hot tub, and Monica made me a hot foot soak for my tired feet, and I applied some yoga cream from India (like Icy Hot) to my sore knees. I feel like a pampered princess! As happy as I am to be here, I keep thinking of my fellow hikers out on the trail - it's snowing out and I just pray they are safe & warm.

Goodnight y'all!! xo